Three Peregrinas: The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

When we arrived in the old part of the city of Santiago we walked uphill and could see the spires of the cathedral ahead. The cathedral is certainly the dominant feature of the old city! It is huge and is surrounded by four plazas. But just walking into the area is a major sensory overload! The whole place is so vibrant. There are lots of pilgrims and tourists and local families and street performers (artists, singers, musicians of all types) and so much to look at. Wandering up and down the surrounding streets one can find all kinds of shops selling souvenirs, clothing, meat, jewelry, ice cream and much more-and we didn't take pictures of them! There are small restaurants and cafes and many have outside seating areas which are great for people-watching and spotting pilgrim friends. When we arrived on Friday we entered Praza da Immaculada and walked down under the arch of Paza do Xelmirez to the large plaza called Praza Obradoiro where a military ceremony was taking place.

The guidebook says, "Take time to arrive." I had wondered beforehand what it would feel like 'to arrive'. I suspected I might cry. As it turned out we were tired and overwhelmed and maybe kind of stunned...and that led to a lot of disorganization! We wanted to attend the noon pilgrim mass at the Cathedral because we had been told that would be the best time to see the swinging of the huge incense burner called a botafumeiro. But we also knew that backpacks would not be allowed in the church. We decided we would pay to store our packs at the Pilgrim Office. Our friend Andrew took us to the Pilgrim Office and gave us helpful directions on how to manuever through the building. But we stood there and just couldn't make a decision about what we were going to do first. And, we weren't sure we could even get ours bags stored in time to get back to the cathedral. Emily figured it out for us! She said she would sit outside of the cathedral with our bags and Mona and I could go to mass. We must have been extremely tired because even making the decision to accept Emily's kind offer was difficult. We just didn't seem to know what to do!

We did make it to the mass. The church was overflowing with people. A kind soldier gave up his seat and Mona and I were able to sit for the last half of the mass but there were many, many people standing in the very wide aisles. The guidebook said the cathedral would seat 1000 but warned that getting a seat was difficult. It was pretty impressive with extraordinary music-the organ music was loud and dramatic, there was a trumpet and a men's choir as well. So much to take in! The tears came when I received communion and I realized I had walked to the cathedral-the home of Saint James-and I had arrived.

At the end of mass the red robed men came forward. You could feel the collective gasp as everyone realized what was going to happen next. They were the attendants, called tiraboleiros, who would perform the ritual swinging of the incense burner. It takes eight men to perform this task and is absolutely amazing. Mona and I could hardly contain our excitement as we watched.

The botafumeiro is lowered.

The incense is added and lighted.

One of the attendants starts the swing while the rest of them control the ropes.

The photo is dark but if you look closely you may be able to see the men controlling the ropes.

Here they are securing the ropes after they have finished.

We attended mass three more times, each just as special. Our last mass was on June 4th, Pentecost Sunday. It had been our great desire to celebrate this important church feastday in Santiago and here we were. We wanted to get a seat, preferably a good seat, so we went to church around 9:30 AM for the noon mass. As it turned out we were in the second row. There was a mass at 10 AM and when that ended we just stayed in our seats for the next one at noon. I wrote about it a little in a previous post, but here are the highlights: Before the mass started there was a solemn procession around the church. It was led by six men in black robes who played antique instruments. A cantor followed and he sang the whole time. Following the cantor were four more men carrying a litter with a sacred box, most likely containing a relic. Next was a procession of priests, including our friend Father Alexius and finally the bishop. The swinging of the botafumeiro happened before the mass started. It was amazing! We could see the fire burning in the giant thurible as it swung right over our heads. To be in the cathedral on Pentecost Sunday at a mass celebrated by the Bishop of Santiago and to receive a pilgrim blessing from him was certainly the highlight of the experience.

But there is just a little more...

Pilgrims are allowed to climb, climb to the high altar. There are narrow marble steps, well worn, behind the altar. When you climb to the top you are standing behind the huge statue of St. James which is high above the congregation. You can hug the statue from the back, rest your head on it and tell St. James whatever you came to say. After descending steps on the other side you can go below the altar to the crypt and reliquary chapel where there is a silver casket containing the remains of St. James. You can kneel before the casket and offer a prayer.